Summary

"This model is a 20” color TV with 181 channel tuner and built in VGA and Mac II capability. The hybrid design of this model allows it to serve several purposes. Television reception, a monitor running Multimedia, PC applications, or for playback of video games. The 20” FST picture tube features a stripe pitch 0.58mm, providing a favourable comparisons to conventional designs which generally measure 0.75 to 0.9mm"

Literature

• User Manual - not available yet on the internet - it is 31 pages and if you come across one please send it to me.
• Service Training Manual
• Schematics (check file list for combined PNGs)

Troubleshooting Notes

Start with the Service Manual - near the end there are several troubleshooting flow-charts. If your TIMM produces no picture (or doesn't even have high voltage), start with page 14-7 or 14-3 depending on which one is more applicable to your situation.

I did not have any luck using a thermal camera to find dead components with this set - there are load resistors for each power rail, and if the CRT isn't running high voltage all of the current will just sit on those load resistors instead of on whatever is shorted/dead. For this one I worked on, the power light was on and the power relay clicked but there was no HV. All power rails except for 15v and 7v were fine. All power regulators were fine. MOSFET QH24 was dead (you should check QH25 too) and the horizontal output transistor QH30 was dead too (check QH40 too). A dead QH30 will continue to kill QH24 until you replace both.

There are spots on each power rail marked with circles and a blob of solder - these are points where you can desolder to remove load from each power rail for testing. Page 14-8 describes testing each power rail "with load opened" - this is saying to desolder the blob for that rail and then test what voltage you get from the power side (not the now-dead load side). If the rail tests fine with the load removed then something on the load side is dead, and if the rail is still low with all load removed then the power side has something dead (maybe one of the regulators for example).

You can read my full repair log with more details (including why I had to rejuvenate the tube in this one) here.