Summary

Magnavox-branded Philips chassis that was commonly paired with 80s composite video computers such as Amigas. It is very similar to the Commodore 1084 chassis, with omitted parts inside necessary for RGB, TTL RGB, and S-Video.

Has a neat feature where you can emulate a green-phosphor monochrome monitor using a toggle switch on the front. Even neater, this feature still works if you RGB mod the monitor (see below).

It does have a comb filter, though specific details are not known.

Manuals

None available at this time.

Media & Promo Materials

• Sales Brochure

Notes

The power switch on these is prone to breaking, just like other Commodore-adjacent monitors of the era. You can replace it with any switch intended for Commodore monitors (1084, etc). Example.

Analog RGB input to the TDA3563A jungle is possible by adding a few missing components and a SCART socket.

There is a place on the motherboard for a standard PCB-mount SCART socket to mount, you just need to cut the hole in the case yourself and do some basic wiring (see images below for example of finished product). There is an image below showing the pinout of the SCART socket on the PCB. Here is a basic overview of the mod steps:

1. Solder SCART socket to PCB and cut hole in case for SCART socket.
2. Solder wire from "sync" on the SCART socket to the composite video input's pad - this will inject properly attenuated sync for RGB.
3. Solder wire from Audio L or R to the audio input's pad - optionally you can first bridge the audio L and R pads together using two identical resistors (such as a pair of 1K resistors) to properly mux the stereo input to mono.
4. Solder 75ohm termination resistors to the R, G, and B input signals. This should be a 75 ohm resistor with one leg on the input signal and other leg wired to GND. One resistor for each color.
5. Solder wires from the SCART socket's RGB pads to the RGB inputs on the TDA3563A (R is pin 13, G is 15, B is 17) - there should be 0.1uF film capacitors in series for each color, to properly decouple the signal.
6. The blanking voltage on this monitor is quite specific - it must be between 1-2v. I like to use the blanking voltage from the SCART socket so that no blanking switch is required to engage the RGB input. However this method will require you to step the standard 5v blanking voltage down to 2v. The easiest way to achieve this is to string together 4 standard diodes in series (such as a 1N4148) - each diode will drop the voltage by 0.7v. 4 of them will drop blanking a total of 2.8v for a final 2.1v blanking from SCART. Once you've dropped the voltage, wire the resulting ~2v signal to the blanking pin (9) on the TDA3563A.